Firenze Renaissance Train travel in Europe can be delightful, the journey from Salerno to Firenze was...

Firenze Renaissance

Train travel in Europe can be delightful, the journey from Salerno to Firenze was a pleasure. We managed to have a table to ourselves, the train was a super fast Frecciarossa and the countryside along the way was simply beautiful. The train smoothly sped along at up to 286 km/hr making the trip relatively short.

So we arrived refreshed and renewed in Firenze. In fact Sue had made a declaration along the way that, as she had not suitably celebrated her birthday, she would remain the tender age of 51. Suzzy only looks 21 to me.

Firenze is a beautiful city, built around the Arno River. It is a product of the Renaissance and perhaps the artistic and scientific centre of it. Leonardo lived here, as well as Galileo, Machiavelli and Dante. It seems that a good deal of its cultural significance is due to the work of the powerful Medici family.

Our accommodation at Firenze was at the aptly named Home in Florence. The rooms were comfortable and spacious. A nice breakfast as well. Our host Matteo was extremely helpful, reminding us of Riku from Lyngseidet in Norway.

We went off to explore the cultural and culinary delights of the city. Our first stop was the Tamaro Pasta Bar. Home made pasta served with sensational sauces. We also enjoyed a fine Chianti with a delicate bouquet. Desserts were also bonisimo. As you can tell, we had begun our Camino training in earnest, building our energy stores.

The Italians certainly know how to cook and we had many a delightful feast during our short stay.

As for cultural activities, we went to the Uffizi Gallery with its many paintings and sculptures. Very religious really, there were many Virgin Marys with Child. They must have been popular with the nobility. There were that many Virgin Marys that they nicknamed one “the Virgin with the long neck”. Bit cruel really.

Botticelli’s Primavera and his Venus on a Half Shell were good and also very popular. Reminded me of a Kurt Vonnegut story (Sirens of Titan perhaps). There were many Asian tourists (I suspect Chinese) taking  selfies or an extensive number of photos with very expensive cameras. Heaven knows what they do with them all. The Uffizi was quite crowded; I would not like to be walking around it in peak season.

We passed on the Statue of David the next day as the Academia had quite a big lineup. Instead we walked up the Bell Tower and the Cupola of the Duomo Cathedral. Quite a large number of steps with good views of Firenze to be had at the top. The paintings on the inside of the dome are quite startling, religious naturally, depicting the Revelations of St John (I guess) regarding judgement day. If any citizens of the time were at all thinking of wavering and taking up a life of sin then the paintings would have given them cause to think again. Particularly the devils helpers wielding burning torches that they somewhat joyfully inserted into the never regions of poor sinners. Perhaps it was an aggressive version of some Renaissance treatment for a bad case of piles. Most horrifying was the image of the Devil, goats head and all, chomping away on a diet of unsavables. All this time Jesus sat above in glorious light with angels singing and various other happy times occurring. No choice really.

I found the Cathedral a bit cold, dark and oppressive. Not quite up to Notre Dame or Amien for spirit lifting. Certainly not to the standard of the excessive splendour of the Vatican.

Probably most interesting for us were the archaeological diggings under the Cathedral. A chap was down there taking 3D photos of a Roman mosaic tile floor. A Roman place of worship was under the Christian Cathedral. Good to see recycling going on.

As with much of life, some of our most pleasant memories arise from unexpected events. Sue and I were strolling arm in arm through the flagstone streets (looking for a bar) when we heard a piano playing. I don't mean just playing, a young lady with a charming hat was playing a concert piece. In fact I'm sure she is a concert pianist. We were invited in and listened enthralled. I have no idea what she was playing, it sounded as complicated as Rachmaninoff. It was just wonderful to be standing within a couple of metres of a very talented person and to be taken away by the music. I think she played for over a half hour. Polite and genuine applause from the handful of people privileged enough to hear her play. All this happened in the European School of Economics! Undoubtedly the lovely lady in the hat would be a wiz on a calculator.

Life goes on outside. Commerce thrives, particularly at the top end; Prada, Tiffany and Giorgio Armani to name a few. Countless leather shops with craftsmen toiling away on hand made shoes and bags. Very impressive. I think I saw a Zegner suit shop, but didn't see Paul Keating.

I have another observation for you that I think I should share. For those who don't know, I had a substantial career in waste management before my retirement. I believe I know what I'm talking about when it comes to garbage. Well I think that Firenze has some of the most attractive garbage collectors I have ever seen. (I would even go so far as to say I hadn't seen any before.) Firstly there were many females and without exception they were immaculately presented. Fetching is not a description normally given to garbos but these certainly were. The Firenze refuse management team receives high praise from this old garbo.

And there was sport. Sport of a medieval kind, Florentine football. We came across a particularly violent fusion of rugby, gridiron and AFL, which was played on a sand pitch. Sue and I had seen men constructing the pitch the day before. At the time I had confidently said that some sort of horse event was to occur there. Perhaps Princess Ann or Princess Zara will be here. Wrong!

Back to the game. Verde were pitched in battle against Blanco. Each side had distinctive medieval shorts on. There seemed to about twenty a side playing on a soccer sized field. All the men looked to be middle aged. A soccer ball was passed by hand to a team member who would run as his fellow team members blocked and grappled with their opponents. Men were flung to the sand, which was quite wet and muddy. The crowd roared with excitement. There were also many rucks and mauls which seemed to have no structure about them. Somehow or other a goal was scored by kicking the ball into a net at the back. The touch judges and referees wore colourful clothes with fancy hats (think of Henry VIII). They also carried swords. Apparently in the early days the game was played between prisoners so they needed a bit of backup. Verde won convincingly and celebrated with a raucous team photo. One of the Verde team brandished a sword, waving it around enthusiastically. I think the NRL would do well to learn from this game. With the recent passing of Arthur Tunstal they would be bereft of ideas.

I should let you know I have been writing this update on another train, this time to Milano. The train has just hit 299 km/hr. The driver, probably another devotee of Juan Fangio, would have been disappointed. Undoubtedly a minor head wind has foiled his goal of 300 km/hr. Cars appear to dawdle on the motorway as we whiz past. Cop that you arrogant Audio and BMW drivers.

Back to Firenze and a weather report. There had been intermittent showers during our stay, which had followed some very heavy rain (when we were at Amalfi). So much so that the River Arno was near flood levels. Downstream at Pisa there was some minor flooding. This had followed a mild winter and a hot dry summer. I think a good deal of Europe is becoming practically convinced of Climate Change.

On our last full day we awoke to a spectacular day. Mild temperatures and bright sunshine. Your hikers headed off into the Florentine Hills. Simply beautiful. Grassy hills with olive trees and grapes growing. Magnificent villas doting the hillside. We saw the observatory where Galileo did his telescope work, causing a bit of bother with the Church. Leonardo da Vinci apparently tested his flying machines on the slopes. Another statue of David stood buck-naked on a terrace, exposing his private bits to any aspiring Galileo with a telescope in Firenze. We walked for about 18 km without a lunch break! Piece of cake.

We had a wonderful time in Firenze, a Renaissance of your intrepid hikers, I feel we are almost pilgrims. On we go by train past Milano to Marseille overnight. Up the next day and onto Bayonne via Toulouse. Will we be tired and cranky in Bayonne?

Probably no need to ask that. More importantly, your pilgrims will be nearing the start of the last leg of this Odyssey.

Besitos

Gary